2023 June

Antigua W.I. - 365 Beaches!

I grew up always feeling that pride of being Antiguan. My parents were never really the type to teach me and my siblings about our culture. It just kind of came naturally, with the cadence and pronunciations of their words, the food we ate, and the music we listened to. I always felt connected with my roots, no matter how far away I was from my land of birth. Even growing up with mostly Jamaican friends, never had me claiming any other island than my own!

I had the honor and privilege of visiting my birthplace last week. Although the stay was far too short, I am so grateful I was able to experience that. The moment I viewed the island from above ground, I was in awe of its beauty. In that moment I had no emotions, in retrospect, I felt like I was having an out-of-body experience. It had been over 30 years since I stepped foot on Antiguan soil. I was 7 years old to be exact, so over 30 years. Now returning as an adult, it was indescribable. Entering the airport and seeing the red, gold, black, blue, and white flag, gave me a sense of pride. I beamed with self-importance as I readily answered “yes” to the lady at immigration asking if I was a resident of the country.

I was so excited to finally be in Antigua, I could have sworn I saw my Uncle Mikey waiting to greet me just beyond the immigration check-in divide. Much to my surprise, the man that looked familiar was indeed my Uncle Mikey. I remember back in New York, as a little girl, my Uncle Mikey used to come visit. I was always excited when Uncle Mikey came because he loved to play with me and my siblings. He was always so much fun. The embrace he gave me when he realized who was walking toward him was some sort of magical experience. I felt so loved and grounded in familiarity and belonging in that very embrace. I knew instantly this trip would be one I would cherish and try my darndest to capture forever memories. As we walked out into the open Antiguan air, I was in awe of the Island’s beauty instantaneously.

Driving through the towns and villages as we traveled to our Resort of choice for the next few days, felt surreal. I felt like I was living in an alternate reality, I just could not fathom the idea that I, me, Anya, was back in the Country that gave me life. Several times, I made myself take mindful breaths to come back to the present moment. I was already so grateful for the opportunity to be there. Our first stop was at a local bread shop. The smells of the sweet bun and the fresh brownie bread sent my nostrils into a frenzy. Not to be outdone, my tastebuds joined in the celebration when I bit into the first bite of some fresh bun and cheese. The smell alone had me traveling down memory lane, the first bite flooded my brain with distinctive memories of my grandmother. I continued to bask in the reality of being home as we continued our journey to the resort.

The resort was not the highlight of the trip. Although the staff was enormously friendly, the premise clean, and well maintained, the suite itself was lackluster. The suite most definitely desired some updates, but again extremely clean. The view, however, made up for the room. The view of the bay leading into the ocean was top-tier. The sunrises and sunsets are why my husband and I work so hard, in the desire to manifest those moments on a daily. The sheer sight was breathtaking. Another downside to the resort would have to be the food, unfortunately. The food seemed to be catered to the European tastebuds more willingly than those of a native-born, or even persons of African descent. It left much to be desired. Ultimately if I had to rate the resort, I would give it a solid 7 out of 10.

Heading into the morning of our first full day on the island, I was delighted to wake up to the view of the ocean and the sounds of different varieties of bird species chirping or calling. My parents were gracious enough to drive us around the island for a private tour. Although that sense of nostalgia I was seeking did not hit me while exploring I was grateful to see the places my parents grew up and the schools they attended as kids. Besides seeing family members whom I have never met and those whom I have not seen for years, the best part of my day was going to the famous Antiguan KFC. I was not expecting to be able to eat at KFC, since I recently decided to become a pescatarian, but to my delight, I spotted a 2-piece fried fish and fries meal. The states could never! The fish was fried to perfection, with the right amount of seasoning. As I bit into the moist flesh it melted in my mouth. I could not have asked for a better experience. I hear the chicken is also a chef’s kiss, and is considered even better than the country-proclaimed best KFC in Jamaica, but then again, I have not tried either so I cannot be the judge of that. However, based on huge bias I would say Antigua may take the prize on this one! We ended the evening off at Sweet T’s, an ice cream parlor, which also moonlights as a local bar/karaoke spot. The grape-nut ice cream was incomparable. It was smooth and creamy with a slight crunch from the malty grape-nut nuggets. I would recommend Sweet T’s, based on the ice cream alone, but then again, the karaoke and the ambiance of observing the intense but friendly domino game in the far corner of the room, paired with the breeze of the warm Caribbean air, created an indescribable feeling. Even my eldest daughter who is very much an introvert, preferring solitude over a crowd, enjoyed herself as well. To top off the night my cousin and her significant other introduced us to the Antiguan nightlife. The mesmerizing sounds of old-school reggae, dancehall, and Soca brought back a sense of familiarity growing up in New York. There was always some sort of reggae, dancehall, Soca, or calypso music playing in my home, or from surrounding homes in the neighborhood. Not to mention the summer block parties. I was so in tune at that moment I did not want to obstruct the experience by bringing out a camera to record. Dominos is a must in the Islands, yet again another group of men engaging in an intense domino session, while sipping on the local Antiguan beer. Watching other couples sway and grind to the rhythm and beat of the old-school reggae mix the DJ expertly curated while partaking in the natural medicines of the Earth created a vibe like no other.

We spent the last day beach hopping and sightseeing, with a little shopping in between. Yeah, Antigua was a definite vibe! It took everything out of me to pack up and prepare to return to the airport, the only thing motivating me to return to the States was missing my husband and remaining children. Trust and believe, that I have already begun making plans to return sooner than later. I am forever grateful to have been able to experience returning home after all these years. These memories will remain in the archives of my brain that store happy moments for years to come.

Devil's Bridge is composed of limestone and rock and is said to be the place where many enslaved Africans went to seek their ultimate freedom from slavery.

Antigua Me Come From

My time in Antigua after 30 years.

Anya Dixon

5/14/2024